As above this is often down to Cooker / Oven timer. Take out of automatic to amend. (Check your handbook if unsure on operation).
The second main cause is down to an interruption to the electricity supply to the house. Check the main fuse board and see if the Oven 30amp fuse has been tripped.
Check the plug fuse (only if the appliance is on a 13amp plug and socket)
Power but no Heat
This is caused by a component failure and an engineer will be able to diagnose which part will be required. This is often linked to an oven element.
Oven cuts out
Thermal switch usually required however also check the cooling fan.
Oven constantly overheats and burns food
This is usually down to a malfunctioning Thermostat and needs replacement.
Can also be linked to failed sensor or loose bulbs in some instances.
Units adjacent to oven are burning
This is generally a result of heat escape due to a faulty door seal which should be replaced every few years although, if the appliance is new, check it has been installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions regarding clearance gaps between the appliance and the unit as scorching can occur if too close.
Oven door does not close properly
Can be as a result of warped or worn door seals. Replacement of the part is required.
Is often due to broken door hinges. The best policy if to replace both hinges as replacing one if often false economy.
The oven or cooker is noisy
Loud noise from the appliance is produced from the cooker’s moving parts so usually this can be traced back to the fan motor or cooling fan motor. In new models this can be down to misalignment but in older cookers can be down to wear and tear of the motor bearings. If not addressed quickly the slower rotation that results can place additional strain on the element and it can overheat and trip consequently.